Understanding Ittar vs Attar
Before we proceed, let's clarify the terms Ittar and Attar. The word “attar” originates from Arabic, meaning “scent,” while “ittar” is simply a variant spelling/pronunciation commonly used in South Asia. Both terms are interchangeable and refer to the same traditional natural fragrance oils.
What is Original Attar?
At its core, attar is a natural, concentrated essential oil derived from botanical sources such as flowers, herbs, and spices. Different countries have their own traditional methods for extracting these oils.
In India, particularly in Kannauj, the traditional method used is called the “deg and bhapka” technique, which is still actively practiced. The process involves:
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Heating a natural substance to release its fragrance.
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The steam containing the natural extract is then cooled and passed over sandalwood oil, allowing the extract to infuse into the oil.
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The sandalwood oil, now infused with the natural essence, is collected and aged for several years.
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Sandalwood acts as a natural fixative, providing a long-lasting scent.
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This aged, fragrant oil is known as attar.
Key Points to Consider
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Historically, natural sandalwood oil was readily available and affordable.
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Today, the price of sandalwood oil used in attar production varies widely, ranging from approximately ₹2,200 to ₹150,000 per kilogram depending on quality.
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The cost of raw materials like rose petals can fluctuate drastically based on quality, weather conditions, and availability.
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The quantity of raw material and the heat applied during distillation significantly impact the quality and yield of the oil, influencing the price as well.
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Due to the high cost of sandalwood oil, some producers substitute it with cheaper alternatives such as DOP (dioctyl phthalate), IPM (isopropyl myristate), or LLP (light liquid paraffin), which lowers the overall price but also affects the purity.
- Availability of raw material vs requirement of final product, for example: It takes around 2000+ fresh roses to have 1ml of rose oil
Modern Extraction Techniques
The traditional process has evolved significantly in modern times with technology enabling more efficient extraction of valuable oil that are consistent in quality too, now a days
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The chemical composition of specific essential oils is studied in detail to identify key aroma ingredients and their proportions using modern techniques like GCMS
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Alternative sources for these ingredients are often found (for example, geraniol is present in rose oil but can be more abundantly sourced from palmarosa grass).
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Using this knowledge, natural ingredients are blended in precise ratios to produce consistent, high-quality essential oils at scale.
This modern approach enables the production of essential oils at a significantly lower cost while preserving the aromatic qualities similar to those of natural oils. Although some label these products as synthetic oils, their chemical composition closely resembles that of natural essential oils—much like water remains water regardless of whether it is naturally sourced or synthesized in a lab.
However, beyond these modern essential oils, some sellers dilute synthetic fragrance oil (which are considerably cheaper than natural essential oils) with carrier oils or Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) then market these blends as attar. This practice further complicates the landscape of attar authenticity. and definatly high price is not enough to ensure the quality of oil, one should also discuss about manufacture process with the seller
Given these variations, people tend to draw their own subjective lines between what constitutes original versus synthetic attar. Currently, there is no universal or standardized method to distinguish authentic attar from synthetic or adulterated products.
To decide which one to prefer, it’s more practical to focus on the application and suitability of an attar. Consider whether the attar will be used on skin or clothing, for personal fragrance or devotional purposes, and whether longevity or the presence of a natural essence is most important.
What should always be avoided is attar containing harmful substances, such as those with phthalate molecules, which can be harmful to skin. For more detailed insights into the impact of fragrances on skin, you can refer to our blog: Behind a Long-Lasting Fragrance.